Our wandering path
Glimpse: Franconia Sculpture Park
- The colorful Franconia sign caught our eye and we steered The Epic Van into the parking lot.
- Detail of Beck’s Playland: “I want drudgery as a prisoner and the swing to reign.”
- The free Franconia art exhibit in northern Wisconsin was one of our favorite stops. This is Playland by Bridget Beck, who says her works create play lands she has imagined.
- One of four fish – Gar, Mud Puppy, Lamphrey, and Catfish - by Robert Ressler, who is “dedicated to reaching out to a wide and varied audience using recreational areas and public spaces.”
- Reclamation by Melanie Van Houten, which “reveals an awareness of the disappearing rural landscape that is indicative of the struggle many farmers face while attempting to maintain sustainable living for all of us.”
- A busy sculptor repurposing stove racks for an upcoming metal pour.
- Lizard Lounge by Mary Johnson, whose work “tends toward the fantastical,” and references vintage toys and roadside attractions.
- 1994 Oldsmobile Achieva S by Tamsie Ringler, who made a latex mold of the car, turned it inside out and poured in 34,000 pounds of concrete.
- Got the Power, by Bayeté Ross Smith, references the role boom boxes have played in urban communities and within popular culture.
In the Saint Croix River Valley, we stumbled upon the Franconia Sculpture Park, its colorful sculptures popping up as we drove along the back roads. It is 43 acres of amazing artworks, presented by a nonprofit organization that also sponsors artist residencies and community arts programming. We wandered the grassy preserve in awe. My favorite was a multi-colored play structure by Bridget Beck, whose says her works create play lands she has imagined. “I believe that there are too few interesting, magical and thought-provoking places,” she states. “I see my sculptures as places to escape responsibility and seriousness. … I want drudgery as a prisoner and the swing to reign.” I’m totally with you, Bridget.
Elephants and motherhood, just so
- Elephant eye.
- Poster for Jumbo.
- Unity on unicycles.
- Sparkling woman on elephant.
- Camels in the ring.
- A vintage railcar with the circus logo.
- Detail of restored circus wagon.
- Circus wagon for hippo, complete with tank for water.
- Clown poster.
- An elephant performing.
- Detail of carving from a circus wagon.
In a foggy Kansas dawn, when I was six or seven, my father woke me up and took me to watch elephants put up a big top.
My memories are as hazy as the morning mist: papery gray wrinkles, enormous lumbering legs, deft, grasping trunks. It was the beginning of a lifelong fascination with elephants and the circus, a fascination I recently fed at the Circus World Museum in Baraboo, Wisconsin.
It felt like witnessing the end of an era, with Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey announcing earlier this year that, after 145 years of featuring elephant acts, it will retire them by 2018 because of the public’s “mood shift.”
Glimpse: Trail of the Cedars
The Trail of the Cedars in Glacier National Park, an easy paved and boardwalk trail, takes you through a cool, green, drippy canopy of ancient western hemlocks and red cedars, some more than 500 years old and up to 100 feet high and seven feet in diameter. The forest floor is covered in ferns, mosses climb the rocks, and waterfalls in Avalanche Creek roar in the background.
Glimpse: Polebridge Mercantile
- It's a long ride down a bumpy dirt road to Polebridge Mercantile, but it's worth it.
- Polebridge Mercantile is a way station for hikers, rafters and those with a taste for fresh-baked sweets.
- One of the wonderful women working in the bakery at Polebridge Mercantile near Glacier National Park.
- The beginnings of Polebridge Mercantile's famous bear claws.
- Polebridge Mercantile's famous baked goods coming out of the oven.
- Polebridge Mercantile even has Gluten-free offerings. THANK YOU.
The bakery at Polebridge Mercantile is legendary. More than one person we met on the road, hearing we were headed to Montana, said with reverence, “You have to go to Polebridge. People wait in line for the bear claws to come out of the oven.” The Mercantile is more than 100 years old, built in 1914, just outside Glacier National Park. It’s a way station for travelers, rafters, and other intelligentsia looking for food, drink, merriment and fresh-baked sweets. The website describes founder William L. “Bill” Adair this way: “He fished, using only one fly (the Coachman), and drank and grew king-sized cabbages while his wife (and later, after she died, a second wife) ran the store and lived in their homestead cabin, which is now the Northern Lights Saloon.” The bakery was started in 1994, and continues to follow the recipes Dan Kaufman, a third-generation baker from Idaho who owned the Merc for 15 years. The afternoon we visited, bear claws were going in and out of the oven, along with gluten-free pineapple-coconut bars. Yum.
Glimpse: Glacier National Park
- One of the boats in the beautiful water of Saint Mary Lake in Glacier National Park.
- The view from Saint Mary Lake in Glacier National Park.
- One of the vintage boats that visitors can ride to tour Saint Mary Lake.
- Indian paintbrush
- Rock with lichen
- Purple flower
- Thimble berry flower
- White wildflowers
- One of the islands in Saint Mary Lake in Glacier National Park.
Glacier is so vast it’s hard to describe. We traversed the Going to the Sun Road on the free shuttle, rolling past cascading waterfalls, breathtaking vistas, the Weeping Wall, and precipitous drops. Then we stepped aboard an old wooden boat to tour Saint Mary Lake, where pieces of the mountains form tiny islands. We hiked with a ranger to the beautiful Saint Mary Falls, past wildflowers and aquamarine water sparking in the hot sun. The indescribable color is due to light reflecting off sediment in the water.
Followin’ the Tambourine man to the pool
Hey! Mr. Tambourine Man, play a song for me
I’m not sleepy and there is no place I’m going to
Hey! Mr. Tambourine Man, play a song for me
In the jingle jangle morning I’ll come followin’ you
I must have been nine, because Bob Dylan’s Tambourine Man, released in 1965, was playing on the radio. It was summer in Leavenworth, Kansas, and my babysitter, who also taught swimming, was driving me and my sister to the pool for lessons.
Swimming is summer. Or summer is swimming. The two are inseparable in my mind. Bikinis, sunburns, Dylan, Big Hunk candy bars, and romance novels.
This week, The Epic Van cruised into Columbia Falls, Montana, our base camp for exploring Glacier National Park, and record temperatures in the upper 90s created heat waves on the pavement as we rolled past the community pool filled with splashing kids.
I insisted. We had to go.
Goodbye, Pippi
- Pippi
- Pippi, the beautiful.
- Pippi enjoying the view from a picnic table by Lake Meredith in Texas.
- Pippi under the covers on a cool evening in The Epic Van.
They’re livin’ my high-school dream
- Happy friends on their way to the Rainbow People gathering.
Look who we ran into in the Walmart parking lot in Butte, Montana. They’re on their way to the Rainbow Family gathering. If I were a few decades younger, I might have jumped on board.
You can read about my obsession with living in a school bus here and here.
Article in Phoenix New Times
- Tom, Judy and Pippi.
- The Epic Van driving through a tiny waterfall in Arizona’s Chiricahua Mountains.
- The Epic Van parked at the City of Rocks, a New Mexico state park that charges less than $15 a night.
- Judy on Devil’s Hall Trail in Guadalupe Mountains National Park.
Here is an article I wrote for the Phoenix New Times about Livin’ the Dream of full-timing in The Epic Van.
Enjoy.
Hello, neighbor
- Fred and Boomer
- Jeff and Ann
- Lissa and goat
- Tim and wheels
- Mary and solar oven
The concept of “neighbor” morphs when you’re living on wheels.
We’re learning to strike fast, connect quickly and hang on digitally. There’s no room for shyness on the road.
Nomads and the civilised look at each other with disapproval and misunderstanding. Why would anyone want to wander the wilderness and live in a tent? Why would anyone want to live in a box and obey unnecessary masters?
Ali, Mostly we’ve found people think it’s really cool. Many tell us they dream of being able to wander the world. Are you a nomad?