Our wandering path
Mobile: Mother of Mystics and Mardi Gras
Historic photo of Mardi Gras in Mobile, Alabama
Historic poster showing Mardi Gras parade with order of floats
Michael Krafft, a handsome, one-eyed cotton broker who, in 1830, with a few (let's guess inebriated) friends, staged the first, impromptu, carnival procession, when they raided the hardware store after midnight, taking rakes, hoes, cowbells and gongs, and banged them on iron fence railings all the way to the house of the mayor, who promptly invited them in for breakfast.
Historic plat of Mobile and booklet on carnivals
Robes of a royal king and queen, covered in crystals and fur.
Detail of royal train encrusted in jewels and embroidery
Ermine detail on royal train
Beaded detail of a bee on a train
Costume of Little Eva, Queen of the Cosmic Cowboys Krewe, always a man in a dress, carrying a toilet bowl plunger for a scepter. The groups' biting wit is displayed on signs, many, unfortunately, unable to be shown in the family friendly museum.
At the Mobile (Alabama) Carnival Museum, we learned that this legendary party did not start in New Orleans, its most famous city, but here, in Mobile.
King Louis XIV, alarmed that the British had the American colonies and Spain had established a foothold near what is now Pensacola, Florida, ordered explorers to grab France’s piece of the pie. They established Fort Louis de la Mobile and called it Mobile La Mer Mystic, or the Mother of Mystics, a name it still wears proudly.
It is believed that in 1703, Mobile held the first Mardi Gras in the New World.
Mardi Gras means Fat Tuesday, or Tuesday Fat, which my fickle little brain had never acknowledged, even after years of high school and college French classes. Mon dieu!
Natchez: Memories and mayhem
The muddy Mississippi.
Southern skinny tamales from Fat Mama's Tamales, along with pickles, hot sauce, cornbread, and corn salad.
Plantation owners and gin managers pose with, perhaps, the weighing of the first cotton bale of the season.
Picking cotton
A steamboat loaded with cotton bales.
Girls dressed for Natchez Mardi Gras Ball
One of the Natchez mansions Tom was viewing when I fell.
Smacked my little head.
Ouch! Three stitches.
Tom trekking the sunken trace.
Judy and Tom in the sunken trace.
Judy and Tom at the Natchez Trace.
Mount Locust, built about 1780, one of the oldest structures in Mississippi, served as an inn where travelers on the Natchez Trace could rest for the night.
The Emerald Mound, built by the Mississippians from about 1300 to 1600, is the second-largest temple mound in the United States.
Now that's a shiner.
Natchez, Mississippi, seems like such a tranquil southern berg. How could one possibly end up in the emergency room? Let me tell you.
But before that, some backstory.
Detours: A part of life
Cactus near Kearny, Arizona
Superstition Mountains near Gold Canyon, Arizona
View near Winkelman, Arizona
Sunset over the train tracks near City of Rocks State Park in New Mexico
Sunrise at City of Rocks State Park in New Mexico
Yoga at our campsite at City of Rocks State Park in New Mexico
The road between Superior and Globe, Arizona, was closed.
It’s kind of symbolic to life, isn’t it.
You make a plan, you encounter a hurdle, you work your way around it.
We took the 60-mile detour through b;oeautiful desert vistas and enjoyed the ride, happy to be on the road again. The extra miles put us near City of Rocks State Park, our destination, just as the sun set.
City of Rocks is one of our favorites, where your campsite is nestled next to volcanic tuff formations, an otherworldly landscape.
We got out our new pan to heat up the peanut-sesame noodles Tom had cooked before leaving home, and, oops, no propane. It seems that when we had some lines repaired, a few months ago, they must have drained the system, which makes sense. But we didn’t remember to refill it.
No worries. The noodles can be eaten cold and were just as delicious.
Tired from the drive, I read only one chapter of The Shadow Catcher, A Novel, by Marianne Wiggins to Tom before my eyes drooped. We snuggled under our newly laundered comforters, luxuriating in the not-100-degree temperatures and drifted off.
I woke early enough to watch the sunrise, unheard of when I’m in sticks and bricks, and listened to an owl hooting for a friend.
At 10, we rolled out our yoga mats next to the rocks and stretched the miles out of our old bones.
Life is good today.
Canada: We love you
Tom and Judy lazing by Okanagan Lake.
The walk to Okanagan Lake from Todd's Lakeside RV in Peachland.
The sunset over Okanagan Lake.
Judy, Tom and Jane at an excellent Indian dinner.
Judy, Tom and Jane on the hike.
The stream on our hike.
Jane and Tom on the trail.
Ferns on our hike.
Judy with tree.
Tom and I disagree about whether the Canadian border guard was just being her military self or was kind of, a little bit, angry at us. Was she just being efficient or was she glaring at us because President Trump had threatened to annex her country and now, here we were, wanting to drive The Epic Van across the border and bask in the uberpolite beauty of our northern neighbor.
A wedding like a song
The happy couple: Kalie and Joe.
Jackie, Kalie and Cassie stocking the bar.
Take a shot, we tied the knot.
Jackie decorating the log structure.
Jeff and Maico bonding.
Rick relaxing on the porch.
Maico, Jeff and Kalie, rehearsing their walk down the aisle, with a couple of canine distractions.
Willie, going over the details at the rehearsal.
Baxter takes a practice run down the aisle.
Next time, for real!
Kalie, front right, and the wedding party, celebrating with a fireball after the rehearsal.
Kalie, back, puts together bouquets with the girls.
Wildflowers gathered by the wedding party for the bouquets.
Ann and Judy with their masterpiece.
The homespun cake for Mrs. & Mr.
Olivia practices her walk/run down the aisle.
Cassie, Callan and Brian play with bubbles on the lawn.
Cassie doing doggie duty before the wedding.
Jeff in his Class A's.
One of the youngest guests at the wedding.
The drink board.
Even the duck decoys got into the spirit.
The door Ann made with baby photos of Kalie and Joe.
Pick a seat, not a side.
They did it!
The wedding singers.
Guests enjoying the signature cocktails.
Tim, the chef, and Candy.
The wedding tables, set and decorated.
The lawn at night.
The night stars over Yellow Pine.
Kalie and Joe by the fire on their wedding night.
Ann, right, with sparklers.
The ring, which Kalie didn't see until Joe slipped it on her finger. Well done, Joe.
Joe, Dave, and Jeff cooking brats the day after the wedding.
Rick, Ann and Jeff relaxing in front of Steve and Sue's store.
Olivia sampling the ice cream at Harmonica Festival.
One of the performers at Harmonica Festival.
A girl in Yellow Pine might need a gun.
The Turtle Poppers performing at Harmonica Festival.
Kalie and Joe got married on the lawn in Yellow Pine.
If it sounds like a John Cougar Mellencamp song, it kind of was.
Art from the heart
Haley’s cut-paper image of Tom and I in The Epic Van.
As we were leaving my friend Meredith’s house to hit the road, her amazing daughter, Haley, came by with a gift: a small cut-paper representation of Tom and I in The Epic Van, heading out on the road.
Haley, a wonderful artist who works in many mediums, is now mastering this Matisse persona.
In Haley’s beautiful piece, you can see me, with my gray hair and red glasses, Tom, with his hat and sunglasses, The Epic Van herself, the places we go and the things we see: saguaros from our home state, mountains, oceans, pine trees, flowers and the sun. We’re waving and happy.
Worlds, in a tiny square.
I adore it, and I adore Haley.
A rainy day
It rained yesterday.
We sat under The Epic Van’s awning in Red Canyon Campground with a stunning view of sandstone cliffs through tall pine trees and watched it rain.
The morning was sunny and hot. But by midday, clouds gathered. Faraway thunder rumbled. And in the afternoon, it started.
A rough re-entry
Judy and Tom rolling through the desert in The Epic Van.
The rolling road on U.S. 60 outside of Springerville, Arizona.
Clouds gathering along U.S. 60.
Clouds gathering along U.S. 60.
View out the window of The Epic Van on U.S. 60 near Springerville, Arizona.
Brian, Georges, Keven and Tom around Keven and Georges's always bountiful dinner table in Alpine, Arizona.
The steak dinner of my dreams.
The sun rising out my window in Graham Creek Campground near Bayfield, Colorado.
Rolling along with the tumbling tumble weeds on New Mexico Highway 601 near Quemado.
The landscape along New Mexico Highway 601 near Quemado.
A view along New Mexico Highway 601 near Quemado.
The camp hosts at Quemado Lake Campground gave Tom a Smokey the Bear hat for his excellent parking skills.
Acacia and Corbin.
Anna in the kitchen at Corbin and Acacia's in Albuquerque, New Mexico.
Corbin and the birds.
Corbin, Tom and Judy at Taos Pueblo.
The Taos Pueblo.
The church at Taos Pueblo.
The Epic Van in the sage near Taos, New Mexico.
Corbin fixing Tom's broken glasses.
Paletas in Albuquerque.
Sometimes, re-entries to the road are hard.
This one was.
Tom vies for sainthood as we pivot
The Epic Van parked at Wenatchee Lake State Park.
Tom and Judy at Wenatchee Lake.
A view of Lake Wenatchee from the beach.
A woman, not me, swanning it on Wenatchee Lake.
The Nason Ridge Trail at Wenatchee Lake.
Tom and Judy on the Nason Ridge Trail.
Maple leaves along the Nason Ridge Trail.
The start of the Cashmere Canyons Preserve hike.
Put another mark under the “saint” column for Tom, who rarely, hardly ever, well, almost never, gets upset with his adorable wife.
But, really, this was a big fuck-up.
Find a road less traveled, but start at the Rooster
The Red Rooster in Saleh, Washington.
Golden hills in Yakima Valley.
Fields of apple trees in the Yakima Valley.
Apples ripening in Yakima Valley.
Apple harvest boxes in the Yakima Valley.
The road heading into Yakima River Canyon.
Yakima River Canyon.
Rafters on the Yakima River.
A view of the Yakima River Canyon.
If you’re looking for a road less traveled, you could start in Selah, Washington, just north of Yakima.
But first, you should stop at The Red Rooster, where you might find a table of about eight people REALLY enjoying their lunch. Don’t be put off by the cracked linoleum, the off-key shout-singing from the drinks-for-lunch gang, or the guy at the end of the bar with a Trump coozie around his Busch beer can. Just order some pulled pork barbecue, with beans and coleslaw on the side.
Nomads and the civilised look at each other with disapproval and misunderstanding. Why would anyone want to wander the wilderness and live in a tent? Why would anyone want to live in a box and obey unnecessary masters?
Ali, Mostly we’ve found people think it’s really cool. Many tell us they dream of being able to wander the world. Are you a nomad?