Our wandering path
La Manzanilla: Crocs, cameras and cormorants
- Primi piloting the boat while Tom spots birds.
- A Great Egret takes flight.
- A Great Egret.
- A Snowy Egret unfurls its wings.
- A crocodile eyes us as we float by.
- An iguana sunning on a tree branch.
- A green heron walking on a branch.
- A juvenile Yellow-crowned Night Heron.
- A Yelllow-crowned Night Heron.
- Thomas sent his camera on a drone out to capture the mangrove preserve from above.
- The whirring blades of the drone.
- A Black-crowned Night Heron.
- A Groove-billed Ani.
- A Ringed Kingfisher.
- A Ringed Kingfisher.
- A Ringed Kingfisher.
- A Common Black Hawk perched on a dead trunk.
- An Anhinga in flight.
- A Neotropic Cormorant drying its wings.
- A juvenile Green Heron.
- A Yellow-crowned Night Heron walking on a branch.
- Another Yellow-crowned Night Heron.
- A juvenile Yellow-crowned Night Heron.
- A juvenile Yellow-crowned Night Heron in flight.
- A Snowy Egret in the sun.
- A group of White Ibis on branches.
At the end of the main road in La Manzanilla, after the farmacia and the paleta shop and the sidewalk stand of charcoal-roasted chicken and the stacks of beach toys and the tiny bodegas and the place with the coldest cerveza, you come to a chain link fence marking the edge of the crocodile preserve.
La Manzanilla, Mexico: The warmth of sun and friends
- The view toward the ocean at Casa Maria en La Manzanilla.
- Meals with the Castelazo cousins under the palapa at Casa Maria en La Manzanilla.
- Frank Castelazo, Jackie's brother, shares a story at dinner.
- One of the silly gifts in the Christmas exchange: coasters you can hang on your nose.
- Mending fishing nets on the streets of La Manzanilla, Mexico.
- Tortilla makers in La Manzanilla.
- The beach in La Manzanilla, Mexico.
- Carson, Luci, me and Tom at the beach.
- Julia shows Campbell a starfish she found on the beach.
- Lucero relaxes in a hammock at the palapa on the beach.
- A fisherman throws out his net on the beach in La Manzanilla, Mexico.
- Nate with rescued kitten Coco (Killer Mike) and Mateo in a hammock at the beach.
- Lucero's favorite drink stop on the road to the airport.
- A man and his parrot in La Manzanilla, Mexico.
- A boy and his rooster in La Manzanilla, Mexico.
- A nativity scene, complete with rabbit in front of one of the houses in La Manzanilla, Mexico.
- A flute player at the Friday market in La Manzanilla, Mexico.
- Fresh fruit at the market in La Manzanilla, Mexico.
- Squeezing lime juice over shredded zucchini, carrots, beets and jicama at the market in La Manzanilla, Mexico.
- Jackie enjoying some fresh veggies at the market in La Manzanilla, Mexico.
- A delivery bike on the street in La Manzanilla, Mexico.
- Tiny Coco (Killer Mike) playing with the wastebasket.
- Coco (Killer Mike) sleeping on the window sill.
- Tom reading in the hammock at Casa Maria en La Manzanilla.
- Tacos on the street in La Manzanilla, Mexico.
- Food vendors at night around the town square in La Manzanilla.
- Industrial churro making at the street fair in La Manzanilla, Mexico.
- Sunset view from Casa Maria en La Manzanilla.
I love Mexico. LOVE IT. The sun, heat and white-sand beaches take me back to Hawaii, where I grew up. The art is amazing, and the food makes me swoon in delight. I go whenever I get the chance.
I hadn’t been since we started our full-time adventure in The Epic Van more than three years ago and was in dire need of a fix. So, we decided to get out of The Epic Van, take a vacation from our endless vacation, and spend last Christmas with the Castelazo family in La Manzanilla, Mexico, a small fishing village on the Pacific coast south of Puerto Vallarta. We celebrated the holidays early with family and friends in Scottsdale, left The Epic Van in mom’s driveway, and jumped on a plane.
Speed tourism in Austin
- Barbecue at Stiles Switch BBQ & Brew in Austin, Texas.
- Beers at The White Horse in Austin..
- Ebaugh & the Tender Things performing at The White Horse in Austin.
- Roman numerals on a recovered timber from the 1684 shipwreck of the La Belle, on display at the Bullock Texas State History Museum in Austin. The number showed that it was a kit ship, the number a guide to which timber goes where.
- A thin gold Sun King medallion found with the shipwreck was a symbol of King Louis XIV of France, who commissioned the expedition. Many of the muskets were embedded with a medallion.
- Hawk bells, found by the thousands on the shipwrecked La Belle, brought to trade with Native Americans.
- Allens Boots on South Congress, SOCO, in Austin.
- Austin's clouds reflected in the Fairmont Hotel Austin.
- Austin's Museum of the Weird.
- The Frost Bank Tower in Austin, known as the "owl building."
- The Paramount Theater in Austin.
- The Texas Capitol, bigger than the U.S. Capitol, nach.
- A moon tower in Austin. Amazing.
- The home of the Texas Longhorns.
- The Tipsy Chick and the Democrat at Torchy's Tacos in Austin.
- The Alabama Shake and a breakfast taco at Torchy's.
There’s a lot to love in Austin, Texas, and we only had 24 hours. So, we went for it. Here’s our visit hour by hour.
Bravado and simple charm at LBJ’s Hill Country ranch
- The reconstructed birthplace of Lyndon Baines Johnson on LBJ's Ranch.
- LBJ at six months.
- A barn on the Sauer-Beckmann Farm, neighbors of the Johnson family when LBJ was a child and now a living-history museum on the Lyndon B. Johnson State Park and Historic Site.
- Descendants of LBJ's herd of registered Hereford cattle still graze on the ranch today.
- The wide Texas skies above the LBJ Ranch.
- LBJ with one of his prized registered Herefords.
- LBJ on horseback, wrangling cattle.
- The Johnson's home on the ranch, dubbed the Texas White House, becasue LBJ worked nearly a quarter of his time in office from the residence.
- Air Force One and a Half, the small aircraft that Johnson took to the Ranch after landing Air Force One in Bergstrom Air Force Base near Austin.
- The baby blue convertible amphibious car that LBJ used to scare the daylights out of guests.
- A photo of LBJ motoring in the amphibious car.
- My favorite photo of LBJ, howling with his dog as his grandson looks on in amazement.
- A portrait of LBJ at the Ranch.
- Lady Bird's name on a placard on the outside of the home.
- The Johnson family cemetery under the spreading live oaks. The two taller headstones are for LBJ and Lady Bird.
I remember seeing a photo of Lyndon Baines Johnson taking the oath of office on Air Force One after President John F. Kennedy was shot in Dallas, LBJ’s wife Lady Bird and JFK’s widow Jackie by his side. The Kennedys were planning to spend the night at LBJ’s ranch on that day when Camelot died. I was eight years old.
Visiting LBJ’s ranch is a strange mix of nostalgia for simpler times and a fairy tale the president created about his own life as a Texas cattleman. You can visit his birthplace, his first school and a living-history farm that gives you a sense of the hardscrabble times in which he was growing up.
German spirit rings familiar in Fredricksburg, Texas
- Quarried limestone from the surrounding hills was used in most of the buildings in Fredricksburg, Texas, including the library.
- Detail of a limestone wall.
- Fresh-baked pumpernickel bread at Fredricksburg's Old German Bakery and Restaurant.
- Smoked pork chop, fried potatos and sweet red cabbage at Fredricksburg's Old German Bakery and Restaurant.
- Spätzle at Fredricksburg's Old German Bakery and Restaurant.
- Schnitzle and warm German potato salad at Fredricksburg's Old German Bakery and Restaurant.
- The birthplace of Fleet Admiral Chester Nimitz in Fredricksburg.
- Windmills dot the sky above Fredricksburg's Pioneer Museum.
- One of the cabins on the grounds at Fredricksburg's Pioneer Museum.
- A doorknob at Fredricksburg's Pioneer Museum that reminded me of the ones in my grandmother's house.
- A dining room in one of the homes at Fredricksburg's Pioneer Museum.
- A German stein in a schrank, or pie cupboard at Fredricksburg's Pioneer Museum.
- The teacher's desk in the one-room school at Fredricksburg's Pioneer Museum.
- German-English lessons on the blackboard in the one-room school at Fredricksburg's Pioneer Museum.
- A wagon at Fredricksburg's Pioneer Museum.
- An automated machine to make woven wire fences at Fredricksburg's Pioneer Museum.
- An antique register at Fredricksburg's Pioneer Museum.
- A huge fireplace in the kitchen of one of the homes at Fredricksburg's Pioneer Museum.
- Hand-embroidered shelf coverings brought from Germany at Fredricksburg's Pioneer Museum. Translation: The housewife fills the chest with treasures and gathers in a richly polished chest.
- A grape press used in winemaking at Fredricksburg's Pioneer Museum.
- An ice-cream cone maker at Fredricksburg's Pioneer Museum.
- A teapot at Fredricksburg's Pioneer Museum.
- Fachwerk, or half timber, a traditional form of German construction, in which the frame is filled with chinking, local limestone in Fredricksburg.
- Blue plaster made with laundry detergent colors the walls of a kitchen at Fredricksburg's Pioneer Museum.
- Lace curtains at Fredricksburg's Pioneer Museum.
- Some of the items available at Fredricksburg's Farmhaus Antiques. If I had a house, I would have bought most of the store.
My grandparents were German, German-Swiss they would always point out. So the names, Otto, Ida, Ernst, the faces, the food and the artifacts in Fredricksburg, Texas, have a familiar ring for me.
Year four begins slowly: We’re already recalculating
- Year four began as we headed out of Arizona on US 60 near Globe.
- A historic marker and obelisk in Fort Thomas, Arizona, north of Safford, marked the birthplace of Melvin Jones, founder of the Lions Clubs International.
- On Interstate 10 west of Fort Stockton, Texas, we shared the road with a convoy of trucks hauling windmill blades.
- As we headed into Ozona, Texas, evening clouds gathered.
- The setting sun on Interstate 10 west of Ozona, Texas, colored the receding storm clouds.
- A Texas highway wet from the rain.
Best laid plans often don’t work out. Sometimes it’s because you need a colonoscopy. Sometimes it’s more than that.
This life of freedom, of endless road trip, of permanent vacation, hangs by a silver thread of health, ours and that of our family. We’re always acutely aware of it and cherish every day in The Epic Van.
And as we continue to make ambitious travel plans, we recognize that, blowing where the wind takes us, means keeping plans fluid.
That’s how year four of our travels in The Epic Van have begun.
Roadster love in Florence, Oregon
- Florences, everywhere.
- A couple dusting their hot rod.
- Chrome, chrome and more chrome.
- Gordon Orloff's Ford Panel Truck, original owned by Wasco County Coroner's Office.
- The beautifully restored panel truck.
- You gotta' drive 'em. It's been all over the country.
- A Ford V-8, of course.
- The truck on the Bonneville Flats, where he scattered his friend's ashes.
- We go riding on the freeway of love in my Copper Cadillac.
- Love this car, the 1960 Copper Cadillac.
- Stars in my eyes.
- A copper-bullet grill over the filter.
- You need the perfect hat to drive this car.
- Etched glass in a back window in another roadster.
- A beautiful woodie, complete with wooden surfboard on top.
- The beautiful blue woodie.
- Suburban.
- The wooden surfboard.
- Surf stickers on the back window.
- An engine is a work of art.
- Love the paint job.
- A Ford hood ornament.
- A Chevrolet Bel Air.
- Another beautiful engine.
- Crazy 'bout a Mercury.
- Red and white. Classic.
- The door handle.
- Another fabulous woodie.
- The back window.
- The steering wheel.
- Fabulous paint job.
- Bel Air and dice.
- Superbee.
- Thunderbird.
- Get some air.
- The Rad Ryd.
- The cool steering wheel.
- A '41 Chevy.
- A 1957 Buick emblem.
- It's cloud reflections I recall.
- Another beautiful color.
- Mopah To 'Ya.
Earlier this month, when we were camped near Florence, Oregon, we stumbled onto the 10th Annual Invitational Rods ‘N Rhodies Car Show, a kaleidoscope of brightly painted, souped-up vintage roadsters.
We wandered up and down Bay Street peeking in the windows and under the hoods, marveling at the beautifully restored 1960 Cadillac Coupe DeVille, called the Copper Caddy, which was featured on Bitchin’ Rides, Season 2.
There were woodies, Thunderbirds, Bel Airs, Mercurys and more, all buffed to a sparkling shine.
We met Gordon Orloff, the owner of a 1934 Ford Panel Truck originally owned by the Wasco County Coroner’s Office. Orloff had painstakingly restored the truck from the wheels up. He believes these historic cars should be driven and has taken it from coast to coast.
A couple of times, it broke down, once right in front of the White House. Once, Orloff got it to a garage, but the owner took one look at it and said, “I can’ let my guys touch that.” Instead, he told Orloff to take the last bay, use any tools he needed and even let him borrow the garage owner’s car to go get parts. That’s how much people love these vehicles.
I’m sharing the love with some pictures. Enjoy.
Today’s hike: Oregon Dunes
- Footsteps heading up the dunes.
- A view across the dunes.
- Rain the night before our hike gave us more stable footing on the sand.
- My footprint in the dunes.
- Tom standing on one of the dunes.
- Another view across the dunes toward a tree island.
- Water collecting in the dunes.
- A view across the dunes to the trees.
- Shore birds wading in water in the dunes.
- A rare community of red fescue growing on the dunes.
The Oregon Dunes, the largest expanses of temperate coastal sand dunes in the world, stretch 40 miles along the Oregon coast between Florence and Coos Bay. They rise nearly 500 feet above the ocean and were designated a National Recreation Area in 1972.
Imported European beachgrass has created a foredune along the ocean. Behind it, winds create a deflation plain, scouring sand down to the water table and providing tiny oases for plants and animals. Transverse dunes, or ripples on the dune surfaces, are created by shifting summer winds. The largest dunes, called oblique dunes, can be as tall as 180 feet and move inland three to 16 feet each year. Parabola dunes interact with the surrounding forest, sometimes losing ground to the trees, sometimes smothering them, and sometimes leaving pockets of forest called tree islands.
We headed toward the dunes on the John Dellenback Dunes Trail near Eel Creek Campground. The trail meanders about one half-mile through lush rhododendrons, madrone and pines before opening onto the oblique dunes.
A brief rain the night before stabilized the sand and gave us good footing as we climbed to the ridge of the highest dune. We wandered along its curving edge about a mile toward a tree island. If you continue another couple of miles, you can hike all the way to the beach.
We saw shorebirds wading and feeding in pockets of water in the deflation plain, as fog rolled in over the trees at the edges of the dunes.
On our way back, we saw red fescue, described as “globally significant” and in need of protection. Signage notes that, although individual red fescue plants are common, “95 percent of red fescue communities are gone,” lost to competition from invading plants, like European beachgrass.
The Epic Van’s road is paved with pages of text
- Some of the books we've just finished, which will be handed out to people who cross our path.
- I'm currently reading aloud to Tom from "Undaunted Courage," about Lewis and Clark's expedition, as we roll down the blacktop.
- Overdrive, the online app used by our library, allows us to download and read books on the road.
- Ivan Doig's "This House of Sky," was one of my favorite books this year.
- "Moby-Dick" drove me crazy.
Books. How could you live without them?
Tom and I both love to read, and life in The Epic Van is rich in hours spent with books.
Back to the workplace in the redwoods
- Tom and Judy standing by the sign at the entrance to Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park.
- Tom and Judy with their official California State Park volunteer vests.
- Tom and Judy doing the banana slug dance, part of the Junior Ranger badge presentation. (Photo courtesy of Leslie Reyes, Senior Park Aid/Volunteer Coordinator, Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park)
- Judy with the bear in the Visitor Center at Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park.
- Tom hiking on one of the trails at Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. He was thrilled to learn that "roving" the trails was an officially recognized duty.
By Tom Nichols
After almost 2½ years of shirking, I went back to work as a volunteer.
The terms: Twenty hours of work each week, split with Judy, in exchange for a campsite with electricity, water and sewer. After two years of freestyle travel, we committed to spend March, April and May as information center volunteers at Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, a U.N. World Heritage site about 40 miles north of Eureka, California. To upgrade our campsite from the maintenance area to a beautiful spot on Prairie Creek, we agreed to cabin hosting, which meant light housekeeping for four utilitarian units with bunk beds and living space but without kitchens or bathrooms.
Nomads and the civilised look at each other with disapproval and misunderstanding. Why would anyone want to wander the wilderness and live in a tent? Why would anyone want to live in a box and obey unnecessary masters?
Ali, Mostly we’ve found people think it’s really cool. Many tell us they dream of being able to wander the world. Are you a nomad?