Our wandering path
The bachelors: Roosevelt Elk at Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park
- We call them the bachelors, the young male Roosevelt Elk that hang out at the prairie by the Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park Visitors Center, where Tom and I are volunteers.
- The bachelors wander and graze across the prairie and throughout the campground.
- Part of the Roosevelt Elk herd near Davison Road, just south of the Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park Visitors Center.
- One of the bachelors strolling across the blacktop by the park cabins.
- One of the bachelors.
- Two of the bachelors standing in the foggy prairie.
- Two of the bachelors jousting.
- One of the bachelors after he lost his antlers.
We call them the bachelors, the four young Roosevelt Elk that inhabit the open prairie by the Visitors Center at Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. The young males are old enough to be threatening to a bull elk with a harem, and so have been cast out to wander on their own.
Obamacare wobbles but works for us and millions – Tax credits under Republican plan won’t cover high cost of insurance
- Tom, Judy and cat, Pippi, as we headed out on our adventure in The Epic Van.
By Tom Nichols
Paying for health insurance for our family of three was my biggest worry after Judy and I quit our middle-class jobs, gave up our employer-subsidized coverage, and hit the road in The Epic Van.
Thanks to Obamacare, health care has been affordable during our first three years of early retirement.
Toasting success: A 10-mile hike, one of my longest
- Ferns and lichen along the trailside.
- Tom in front of downed trees on James Irvine Trail.
- The first Trillium of the season.
- Red mushrooms along the trail.
- A pretty coral-colored mushroom.
- A view down into a steep crevice along the trail.
- The sun peaked through the trees as we neared the shoreline.
- A view into Fern Canyon.
- Canyon walls dripping with ferns.
Well, give me a high-five.
Yesterday, I hiked nearly 10 miles, one of the longest hikes I’ve ever done, and although my feet and legs hurt last night, I’m still standing this morning.
Drifting off in the drippy rainforest
- California's coastal redwoods are the tallest and among the oldest living things on earth.
- More than 100 inches of rain have fallen this season in the redwood forest in northern California.
- His and hers waterproof boots. How romantic!
- Tom in his rain gear. Can't touch this.
- The day we broke in our waterproof hiking gear, we had rain AND hail.
- The white background made this Giant Pacific Salamander stand out.
- Moist air feeds the lichens and mosses that grow on every conceivable surface, including the redwoods themselves.
- Tom stands in front of the downed tree on Cathedral Trees Trail. The trunk just behind him is a smaller tree the big giant took down with it. For reference, Tom is 6-foot-three.
I want to know. Have you ever seen the rain comin’ down on a sunny day? – Creedence Clearwater Revival
I love the sound of rain. Especially on the roof of The Epic Van. And in our current spot in California’s redwood forest, I’m getting to listen to lots of it.
Our latest home sweet home
- Tom next to one of the big redwoods in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, our latest home sweet home.
- With all the rain and wind this year, several trees have come down. These two are blocking one of the hiking trails.
- Everything, EVERYTHING, is green.
- One of our new neighbors, a Roosevelt Elk.
- The Epic Van got to do some stream crossing on the beach road.
- The pristine Gold Bluffs Beach, white with foam.
- Bird tracks were the only other footprints we saw.
We have arrived at our new “home” for the next three months. We will be volunteering at Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park in northern California. It has the largest remaining expanse of ancient redwoods in the world, a canyon with walls of fern, a pristine wild beach and herds of elk.
We are beginning to explore the 75 miles of trails and to learn about the park’s flora and fauna. In addition to the elk, there are black bears, mountain lions, bobcats and black-tailed deer. I am happy to report I have only seen the deer and elk, which graze on the prairie outside our window.
With more than 70 inches of rain and wind this winter, there are an unusual number of massive trees down. One registered 2.0 on the Richter scale at a nearby cabin and damaged the road on the scenic bypass, off of U.S. 101. Crews are working to repair the road this week, and hope to have all the trails cleared by the end of the month.
Earlier this week, we took The Epic Van down the bumpy road to Gold Bluffs Beach, an amazing wild stretch of the Pacific Ocean, white with foam, just like in the song. Epic even got to do some stream fording along the beach road.
Anyone planning to be in our area should stop in for a visit and a walk among the oldest living things on the planet, the trees, not me and Tom.
Death Valley’s awesome nature display
- Sun setting over Death Valley National Park.
- The Epic Van in a lovely boondocking site off Greenwater Valley Road in the southeast corner of the park.
- Evidence of water on the Valley's floor.
- Pupfish, which live only in Death Valley, mating. Can you find them?
- The beautiful shadows at Mesquite Flats Sand Dunes.
- Storm clouds over the Valley.
- An unexpected storm drops pounding rain on the mountains and in the lowlands.
- The trail climbing out of Golden Canyon.
- Hikers (tiny) on top of the peaks over the canyon.
- Chlorite colors the canyon walls green.
- Desert holly, the only plant we saw in Golden Canyon.
- Evidence of the earth's tilting crust along the fault line that creates Death Valley.
- Minerals paint the Canyon's walls.
- Tom examining salt crystals forming from water seeping through the Canyon walls.
- The steep walls in Gower Gulch cut by past runoff.
- An example of borax, the mineral that made Death Valley famous.
- A display with a photo of the Harmony Borax Works at its height of production.
- One of the twenty-mule-team wagons used to transport the borax. The team actually was 18 miles and two horses.
- Salt crystals forming on Badwater Basin.
- The view over Badwater Basin.
- The picturesque road out of Death Valley.
Death Valley National Park in the late winter provides an awesome display of nature’s power, particularly if you are lucky enough to be there during one of its rare storms, as we were earlier this month.
We found a boondocking spot off Greenwater Valley Road, a dirt road near Zabriskie Point in the southeast corner of the park and slept in The Epic Van under the thunder, lightning and rain from an unpredicted front.
Rangers remarked that it had been months since they heard thunder over the Valley’s floor, and even though the park had lots of rain this year, it came too late for a superbloom of wildflowers like they experienced last year.
Roads to several of the park’s favorite spots were washed out by an earlier storm that dropped nearly an inch of rain, half the usual annual rainfall. And Scotty’s Castle, an attraction for decades, remains under renovation from a 2015 storm that dropped more than a year’s rainfall in 5½ hours and damaged 500 miles of roads in the park. The castle won’t reopen until 2019.
Despite all this rain, Death Valley is the driest, hottest, and lowest in the country. It’s the largest national park south of Alaska. And there is still plenty to see.
We hiked Golden Canyon/Gower Gulch, a 4.3-mile loop through mineral-colored canyon walls where you can easily see the tilting of the earth’s crust, evidence of the fault line that creates the mountains and drops the Valley floor below sea level. The trail then climbs to towering views across multiple mountain ranges and follows a downhill return through the moonscape-like gulch carved by runoff.
We also walked the closed road to the Salt Water Interpretive Trail, where we traversed boardwalks over marshes teaming with a subspecies of tiny pupfish, exclusive to Death Valley. We were lucky enough to watch them mate, the colorful male and the more subdued brownish female side to side, in a little squiggle.
We visited the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes and compared them to dunes we have seen: Great Sand Dunes National Park in Colorado, the gypsum dunes at White Sands National Monument in New Mexico and Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore along Lake Michigan.
We took the ranger-led tour of the remains of the Harmony Borax Works, learning about the mining operations that made millions for the Pacific Coast Borax Company, which produced 20 Mule Team Borax. The company’s Death Valley Days on radio and television began in the ’30s and ended in the ’60s. When the mining profits waned, the owners turned to tourism and pushed for the creation of a national monument, which later became a national park.
And we walked out onto Badwater Basin, 278 feet below sea level, where salt crystals form across miles of the Valley floor.
Awesome hardly covers it.
The art of mischief: Yarn bombing
- A lovely yarn-bombed tree.
- Another.
- The love theme.
- Meredith and daughter Haley, yarn-bombers extraordinaire.
- Walkers, both two-legged and four-legged, enjoy the love tree.
- Jackie, another fabulous mischief maker.
- Love, love, love.
- The love bench.
- Monika and Meredith on the love bench.
- Eres Amado.
- You are loved.
- A bike rider stopped to take a photo and said it was the best valentine he received.
- It makes me smile, too.
- Ann and Jeff, our friends from Idaho, prepare their yarn-bombing materials.
- Jeff uses his medical skills to get a perfect seam.
- Hearts twirling in the love tree.
- An argyle heart.
- Duffy meets a new friend.
- Haley, who out-witted, out-played and out-lasted the haters. Go, Haley!
While we were “home” in Arizona, we participated in a little mischief: yarn bombing.
Origins of Jeannine Tour (8): Hanover
- Hanover's main street, a street that was always sparkling with lights and candy-cane decorations as we crested the hill for our annual Christmas visit.
- Mom's mother, Ida, as a young woman.
- The historic Pony Express station near Hanover, where Dad proposed to Mom.
- Mom, on the step of the Pony Express station, showing her ring finger.
- Me sitting on Dad's lap and Nancy on Mom's at the age when we visited Hanover every summer and at Christmas.
- Mom outside Hanover Hospital, where she was the first nurse and the only one at the time.
- Mom with nurses now working at Hanover Hospital.
- Mom with Roger and Linda Warren, the husband and wife doctor team in front of Hanover Hospital.
- Grain silos at the beginning of the road to Grandma's house.
- Mom on the road in front of the yard where Grandma's house once stood.
- Longhorn cattle now grazing at the end of Grandma's road.
- Mom and I outside Ricky's Cafe.
- My roast beef, mashed potatoes and gravy at Ricky's. Yummmmm.
- Mom putting Dorthy Lynch on her salad at Ricky's Cafe.
- Crackers and Dorthy Lynch make a perfect salad at Ricky's Cafe.
- Hanover's school, where Mom's dad was the superintendent, principal, coach and taught math and science.
- Me on the merry-go-round that my sister, Nancy, and I would play on at Hanover's City Park.
- Mom with Nancy and I at the age when we visited Hanover a lot.
- The swimming pool that m grandfather helped build in Hanover.
- The sign in Hanover's Zion Lutheran Church that always lists the hymns for the day.
- Mom and Dad walking the aisle in Hanover's Zion Lutheran Church.
- You may kiss the bride.
- Mom and Dad and their wedding party, which included Doris Payne, mom's roommate at the University of Kansas, Bob Kokrda, who married my father's sister, and Hal, Mom's brother.
- The reception line, with my dad grinning like the Cheshire Cat.
- Mom at the beginning of the aisle she traversed to get married in Hanover's Zion Lutheran Church.
- Mom and Jesus in Hanover's Zion Lutheran Church, where she was married and we attended my grandmother's funeral.
- The lovely wooden pews in Hanover's Zion Lutheran Church.
- Hymnals on the back of the pews in Hanover's Zion Lutheran Church, unchanged since i was a kid.
This summer we took Mom in The Epic Van on a tour of all her old Kansas haunts. We’re calling it the Origins of Jeannine Tour.
Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, Part 5, Part 6, Part 7, Part 8
Hanover is where my mother’s memories merge with mine and my sister’s. It is where her parents, Harley and Ida Prichard, moved while she was in college, and it is the place I visited every summer and Christmas until we moved to Hawaii when I was in junior high. For me, it is inseparable from my fun-loving, adventurous, industrious grandparents.
Tears for ‘The Fitz’ at the Shipwreck Museum
- A picture of the Fitzgerald plying the waves of the Great Lakes.
- The bell of the Edmund Fitzgerald, recovered in 1995 and on display at the museum.
- A poster of the SS Edmund Fitzgerald.
- A White Shoal Fresnel Lens from lighthouse on display at the museum.
- Artifact on display at the museum.
- Artifact on display at the museum.
- Artifact on display at the museum.
When I think of the Shipwreck Museum at Whitefish Point in Michigan, on the treacherous southern shore of Lake Superior, I will remember Jack Champeau’s tears.
Monterey Bay Aquarium: Beware the Kraken
- The Giant Pacific octopus in all its glory.
- The Giant Pacific octopus, its tentacles gripping and releasing as it moves across the glass of the display.
- A light-colored octopus.
- A stumpy cuttlefish camouflages itself in sand, coral or algae, then ambushes unsuspecting prey.
- The chambered nautilus swims using jet propulsion.
- An artistic depiction of the octopus.
- An ancient mosaic depicting an octopus.
- A Minoan vase depicting an octopus.
- A jellyfish on display.
- The tentacles of a jellyfish gliding through the water.
- Artist Gulnur Ozadaglar believes the solution to our accumulation of plastic is upcycling. She transforms ordinary materials into beautiful objects, like this plastic bowl resembling an ocean jellyfish.
- Artist Alison McDonald, who created this amazing seaweed depiction from a plastic bottle, wants us to think about the plastic we use.
- An otter resting, floating on its back.
- The aquarium has a display on John Steinbeck and his book Cannery Row, which described life on Monterey's Ocean Avenue, lined with sardine canneries.
- Ed Ricketts, a marine biologist and friend of Steinbeck, was the model for the character of Doc in Cannery Row.
- An octopus preserved in one of Ed Rickett's collections.
Below the thunders of the upper deep,
Far, far beneath the abysmal sea,
His ancient, sleepless, uninvaded sleep,
The Kraken sleepeth …
– Alfred, Lord Tennyson
I remember the day I first saw a real octopus with a hazy, cinematic quality, like I was in shock, transfixed, short of oxygen. It was the same when I went to the Tentacles exhibit at the Monterey Bay Aquarium recently.
Nomads and the civilised look at each other with disapproval and misunderstanding. Why would anyone want to wander the wilderness and live in a tent? Why would anyone want to live in a box and obey unnecessary masters?
Ali, Mostly we’ve found people think it’s really cool. Many tell us they dream of being able to wander the world. Are you a nomad?