Our wanderings

Our wandering path

Glimpse: World Kite Museum and Hall of Fame

  • Detail of a barrage kite, strung from ships by piano wire strong enough to shear the wings off enemy aircraft.

Kites capture the endless-summer feel of the beach, sun and wind, and in Long Beach, Washington, you can visit the World Kite Museum and Hall of Fame. Each August, they host Washington State International Kite Festival. The museum started with a donation of 700 Japanese, Chinese and Malaysian kites. The 300 Japanese kites are considered one of the most complete collections outside of Japan. In 2005, the museum moved from a house to the current building right off the beach. It now houses more than 1,500 kites from 26 countries. When we visited in October, we were fascinated by the exhibit on World War II kites. It included barrage kites, flown from piano wire above unarmed merchant vessels in the Atlantic. The 2,000-foot wires were strong enough to shear off the wings of enemy planes. The British added bombs that would go off on impact with aircraft. Other WWII kites collected meteorological data and housed radar, and carried messenger containers that could be snagged by airplanes, allowing the passing of maps, reports and other documents. And target kites were flown above ships for U.S. Navy gunners to practice their shooting. Here’s a glimpse.

Glimpse: La Conner Quilt and Textile Museum

  • The restored 1891 Historic Gaches Mansion in La Conner, Washington, which houses the La Conner Quilt and Textile Museum.

I am in awe of my friends who “paint with fabric.” They do amazing things with fabric and thread. So I was excited to see the La Conner Quilt and Textile Museum in the 1891 Historic Gaches Mansion. The Mansion is an attraction in its own right, having been lovingly restored and containing exquisite tiles around the first-floor fireplace. Photos are not allowed of the amazing work on the first and third floors, so you’ll have to go see for yourself. The featured exhibit on the second floor, Thirty Quilts for Thirty Years, showed the work of Caryl Bryer Fallert-Gentry, internationally recognized for her fine-art quilts. The exhibit marks Fallert-Gentry’s 30 years of quilt making, with each of the quilts 30-by-30 inches. They range from Bradford Fantasy #1, a colorful representation of the autumn pear leaves from her former home in Paducah, Kentucky, to the stark Casting a Long Shadow, a stunning depiction of two human shadows on the beach in Kauai, quilted in forms the waves made in the sand. Read more about the exhibit here.

After all that mind food, have a beer at the La Conner Pub and Eatery on the Swinomish Channel and watch the sun set through the Rainbow Bridge. Here’s a glimpse.

 

 

Glimpse: Leavenworth (Washington) National Fish Hatchery

  • Salmon eggs waiting to hatch.

I have been fascinated by salmon since Tom and I owned a small newspaper in Fort Bragg, California, a vibrant fishing harbor north of San Francisco. At the time we were there, in the late-80s, the salmon fishermen were slowly going broke, facing more and more closure days as the salmon populations declined. So, I was interested to see the Leavenworth National Fish Hatchery, one of the hatcheries built to help blunt the loss of habitat when the Grand Coulee Dam was built on the Columbia River in the 1930s. Today, it raises and releases 1.2 million juvenile spring Chinook salmon into Icicle Creek each year. A pilot project is also under way to mix colder, pumped groundwater into the creek to improve fish habitat. You can visit the buckets, trays, tanks and raceways where the salmon move from fertilized egg to hatchling to fingerling to smotes, which are released in April. We later hiked along the Wenatchee River, where we could see salmon swimming in the cool deep water. Despite substantial efforts, salmon populations continue to decline. Here’s a glimpse.

Twisp River Fire: A mother’s grief, times three

  • A firefighter looks out at people lining the streets as a procession of fire vehicles makes its way to the memorial for the three firefighters killed in the Aug. 19 Twisp River Fire.

When Tom Zbyszewski’s mother stood Sunday to address the memorial service for her son and the two other wildland firefighters lost to Washington’s Twisp River Fire on August 19, she seemed so very small, her curly hair, shot through with gray tendrils, trembling slightly as she crossed the stage at the Toyota Town Center in Wenatchee.

She straightened her cream-colored suit jacket and put on her glasses.

She looked out on several thousand faces, most of them employees of the U.S. Forest Service, just like her, like her husband, “Ski,” by her side, who is retired. Many of those who came to mourn were dressed in the pants and T-shirts they would wear when they returned to the still-active fires burning across the West. So many faces. So young, like Tom.

Golden oldies: friends, that is

  • Smoke shrouds the skyline over the Spokane Falls, which cut though the middle of the city.
The old Girl Scout song, “Make new friends, but keep the old; One is silver, and the other’s gold,” could be a theme song for our new life in The Epic Van.

We love meeting new people on the road, and we’re also able to reconnect with longtime friends who’ve moved away from Arizona.

Glimpse: The Hiawatha Rail-Trail

  • Tom heading into the nearly two-mile tunnel on the Hiawatha Rail-Trail, one of our entertainment splurges.

The Hiawatha Rail-Trail is my kind of bike ride, 15 miles through the stunning Bitterroot Mountains, over seven trestles, through 10 tunnels, including one more than a mile and a half long, all downhill with a shuttle ride back to your vehicle. Genius. The route follows the former Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Railroad, which crossed through the mountains to reach the Pacific in 1909. Construction was estimated at $45 million, but exceeded $234 million. The route hosted the luxury Hiawatha train, with Super Dome observation cars and Skytop sleepers. The line went bankrupt more than once, was abandoned in 1980 and converted to a bike trail beginning in the late 1990s. Signs along the route show where people escaped the 1910 fire called “The Big Burn,” stories of the amazing construction required to get over the Idaho mountain passes, and of the people who worked on the rails. A trail pass costs $10, a shuttle ticket, $9. If you don’t have your own bike, you can rent one at the Lookout Pass Ski Area. They’ll even give you a bike rack to get it to the trailhead. Here’s a glimpse.

Worshiping at the altar of King Corn

  • A mural on the outside of the Corn Palace made entirely of multicolored corn on the cob.

One of the highlights of our annual summer visits to Tom’s childhood home in Rantoul, Illinois, was the fresh-from-the-field corn, purchased from Mr. Zander’s produce stand and boiled, just three minutes, but long enough to create a sauna in the July heat and humidity of the tiny house on Englewood Drive.

The yellow and white ears were piled in a towering pyramid in the center of the table, each of us grabbing an ear, juggling to avoid burned fingers, chomping into the kernels as butter dripped down our chins and sweat gathered on our foreheads.

It really didn’t matter what else was for dinner. Corn was always the main course, and I once watched Tom eat five ears in a row.

Glimpse: Villa Louis, Prairie du Chien, Wisconsin

  • The beautiful entrance to Villa Louis in Prairie du Chien, Wisconsin.

When you visit Villa Louis, the 19th century estate of the Dousman family, set on a hill just out of the reach of the Mississippi River’s regular floodwaters in Prairie du Chien, Wisconsin, the shocking excesses of the leisure class are on display. There are photos of the wealthy family enjoying the home and grounds, but you must use your imagination to envision the bevy of servants cooking, cleaning, washing, ironing, tending the grounds, preserving foods, and cutting blocks of ice from the river to keep perishables cold. The family’s fortune was built on the fur trade and was lost when the son, H. Louis Dousman, died at 37 in the midst of building an ill-fated Artesian Stock Farm to breed and raise trotter horses. The home is restored to its appearance in the mid-1890s, and more than 90 percent of the original furnishings are intact. A tour guide, dressed in period clothing, takes you through the home. The tour includes the separate office, complete with billiard room; the ice house, where blocks of ice from the Mississippi River were packed into the cellar and kept meats and cheeses cold; the preserve house, where summer fruits and vegetables were canned; and the laundry, with a second floor where clothes were hung to dry. They don’t allow photos inside, so you’ll just have to go see for yourself. The site also contains the remains of Fort Crawford, built in 1816 to help secure the Northwest frontier, and a Fur Trade Museum housed in an 1850s stone structure built by B. W. Brisbois, one of the last fur traders in the area.

Glimpse: The Day The Music Died

  • Buddy Holly

When we walked into the Surf Ballroom in Clear Lake, Iowa, crews were setting up for a concert. Images of Buddy Holly, forever remembered for his last concert here, stared down from the walls, across the original booths, hand-painted murals and maple dance floor. In the wee hours of a frigid February morning in 1959, a 21-year-old (apparently unqualified) pilot was at the helm of a small airplane that plunged into an Iowa cornfield, killing Holly, Ritchie Valens, and J.P. “The Big Bopper” Richardson. The musicians were touring the Midwest on The Winter Dance Party Tour, 24 stops in 24 days. But the tour was poorly planned, with the artists zigzagging back and forth across hundreds of frozen miles in a bus so cold that drummer, Carl Bunch, was hospitalized with frostbitten feet. Holly decided to fly from Clear Lake to Fargo, North Dakota, to skip the bus and get some rest. Richardson, who had the flu, took Waylon Jennings’ seat on the plane and, when Holly found out, Holly told Jennings, “Well, I hope your ol’ bus freezes up.” Jennings replied, “Well, I hope your ol’ plane crashes,” a comment that he said has haunted him all his life. Valens asked Tommy Allsup for his seat, and they flipped a coin. Valens would fly. The plane took off shortly before 1 a.m. from Mason City Municipal Airport. Pilot Roger Peterson flew into a cloudy, snowy sky, although he was not qualified for instrument flying and was not given an adequate briefing on deteriorating weather in his path. The plane crashed minutes later, less than six miles from the airport. Investigators think he may have misread the attitude gyro, which gave the opposite visual of the artificial horizon on which he had been trained, and that he flew into the ground, thinking he was ascending. The wreckage was discovered about 9:30 a.m. Holly’s pregnant wife learned of his death from television reports, and soon suffered a miscarriage, prompting officials to change their policies and withhold victim names until notification of next of kin. Don McLean memorialized the crash in his iconic song, American Pie, in which he references how he heard the news when he was folding and delivering newspapers the next morning. “February made me shiver, with every paper I’d deliver. Bad news on the door step. I couldn’t take one more step.”

 

Glimpse: Effigy Mounds

  • Detail from poster in visitor center showing bear mounds along a ridge.

As you climb the hill behind the Effigy Mounds visitor center near Harpers Ferry, Iowa, you are enveloped in green, hickory and maple trees, bushes, grasses, punctuated with spots of sunlight and pink, purple, white and red wildflowers. When the Woodland people were building mounds 850 to 1,400 years ago, they would regularly burn the slopes by the river, presumably to maintain open meadows and attract large game. In a more open area, you could easily see the beautiful banks of the Mississippi River, and the mounds would be more visible. Today, they are shaded and somewhat obscured by thousands of trees. Still, you can make out the shapes, although they would be more easily seen from the air, an odd fact for builders who had no way to fly. The Native American Woodland people created these mounds, many of them for burials, piling topsoil usually four feet high, some up to 212 feet long. There are birds, turtles, bison, deer, lynx, lizards and bears, lots of bears. Bears are most prevalent here, some marching in a line downriver. Simpler dome shapes sometimes were connected with linear mounds. No one knows the true meaning of the mounds, or why the building stopped. But as you walk past the massive earthworks, you marvel at the collective effort and artistic aesthetic required.

 

2 Comments

  1. Reply
    electricscootershq.org March 1, 2017

    Nomads and the civilised look at each other with disapproval and misunderstanding. Why would anyone want to wander the wilderness and live in a tent? Why would anyone want to live in a box and obey unnecessary masters?

    • Reply
      Judy Nichols March 3, 2017

      Ali, Mostly we’ve found people think it’s really cool. Many tell us they dream of being able to wander the world. Are you a nomad?

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